Polymer Clay Project Tutorials - » Egyptian Earrings/Transfer Method

• 1/4 block Premo White 5001
• Black and White Photocopy
• Eucalyptus Oil
• Translucent Liquid Sculpey
• Plastic Craft Brush
• Sharp Craft Knife
• 2 Long Head Pins
• Rosary Pliers or Side Cutters & Needlenose Pliers
• Earring Finding/French Wire
• 2 Beads
• Water Based Oil Paint or Acrylic Paint
• Soft Cloth
• Bowl of Water
• Glass Cutting board(with rubber feet removed)
• Embossing Heat Gun

Directions:

Preparing the Transfer:

• Insert jpeg headdress1 (from Dover Designs - public domain) into a Word document. Resize to several sizes. Print document. Photocopy document in a copier that uses dry toner.
• Cut out photocopied art. Cut along edge of the design,(this will also be the edge of the earring).
• Condition and roll out Premo White clay to the #1 setting of the pasta machine, cut in half.

• Place the 1/2 clay sheet on the glass cutting board. Place cut-outs on the sheet to position, then set cut-outs aside.
• Apply a few drops of Eucalyptus Oil on your index finger and lightly coat the surface of the clay. You will feel the surface change as it slightly dissolves.
• When it is entirely covered, carefully place the cut-outs face down, so that the toner of the photocopy is against the clay surface. It will slide a little and then “set”.
• Once set, use a few drops of the oil on the BACK of the cut-out, until the paper becomes translucent and you can see the design through the back.

• With the craft knife, follow the outline of the cut-out to trim excess clay away.
• Heat piece with an embossing heat gun, heating in a circular motion, to completely heat the surface. The paper will dry out again, appearing white. While still warm, lift the paper from the clay.

• The paper should release easily, with a beautifully detailed transfer left on the clay. If it does not easily release, let go of the paper and reheat.

• Bake at 275 degrees F in a calibrated oven for 30 minutes per ¼” of thickness. (Calibrate using an external thermometer to check accuracy of dial or digital readout.) Note: The excess oil-coated clay can be used again, if kneaded with some clean clay, but does often create air bubbles, so must be kneaded extensively.

Making the Earring:

• Once clean, lay the second half of the clay sheet on the glass cutting board. Place the baked pieces onto the raw clay and press into it to make an impression.
• Pull baked pieces back up and score the backs with craft knife. On the impressions, position the headpins so they lay in the center, extending above and below the edges.
• Push headpins into the clay so they lay flush.

• Place the baked pieces on top of the impression, headpins in place. Push down until the baked pieces adhere to the raw clay. Trim the raw clay away.

• Using a plastic craft brush, coat the top surface with Translucent Liquid Sculpey and bake again. Allow the piece to cool on the glass.

Finishing the Earring:

• Coat front, back and sides of earring with water based oil paint, burnish. ( I like to put little cuts into the surface of the TLS with the craft knife to further enhance the aged look).

• Using pliers, make a sideways loop at the top of the earring.

• Snip headpin so there is enough length at the bottom of the piece for another loop. At this point, you may need to trim clay from the earring with the craft knife.
• With the remaining piece of the pin which actually has the head, slip on the bead, trim pin for loop, make a loop.

• With pliers, open loop sideways, slip onto bottom loop of the earring and close.
• Open top loop sideways, slip onto earring loop and close.

Variations:

Try different colors of clay or marbled clay. Achieve different shapes by cutting the paper to the parameter you want your finished piece, such as cutting a larger rectangle around your design. Remember that anything white will be the clay showing through.